‘Farm to fork’ – finding fertile ground in lockdown France?

Does the corona pandemic present us with an opportunity to rethink our approach to what we eat and where we get our food? Closed borders and enforced lockdowns have, unintentionally, reduced carbon footprints and shortened supply chains. Sustainable approaches to food production and consumption have inadvertently become the default option. In countries like France where agriculture is strong and the village market is deeply embedded in cultural and social identity, this trend is becoming increasingly evident. In March this year, the European Commission released its Farm to Fork strategy. Some of these ideas are being realised in lockdown France via a rise in small, local initiatives that sell fresh produce directly to customers on a weekly basis.  

Before coronavirus struck, Europe’s agricultural industry was under increasing pressure from EU green initiatives. In France, farmers drove their tractors on to the streets of Paris to protest the rise of ‘agri-bashing’. For example, the banning of common pesticides and protests from activists about animal rights. Farmers complained of being scapegoats for a society in which green concerns are becoming increasingly dominant.

Similar activities by Dutch farmers were reported in the Hague, parliamentary capital of the Netherlands, toward the end of last year. Farmers arrived en masse, with their tractors to protest government policies designed to reduce greenhouse gas emissions from animal farming. ‘We are mad and sad’, one Dutch dairy farmer told me. ‘We don’t think the government will listen to us. But we will come back next time with more tractors if we have to’, he promised.  

‘A fair, healthy and environmentally sustainable food system’ for Europe.

Traditional farming methods are coming under increasing attack as EU countries, commit to greening their economies. Farmers argue that they are being unfairly scape-goated in spite of the fact that they put most of the food on our plates. The EU’s new flagship food policy, Farm to Fork, emphasizes the importance of sustainability and shortened supply chains in food production. Designed to secure a ‘fair, healthy and environmentally sustainable food system’ for Europe, it is part of the wider EU Green Deal. It has links with the Circular Economy Action Plan, the Zero Emissions Strategy and the Biodiversity Strategy.

An increase in land dedicated to organic farming is also one of the key Farm to Fork targets. At  present, there is a lack of demand for organic products but the pandemic might be instrumental in changing this as consumers look to support local producers who can offer fresh, pesticide free produce. Farm to Fork also focuses on reducing obesity linked to unhealthy diets. Plans to adapt labelling on food are aimed at making the origin and nutritional profile of certain foods mandatory. In France and the Netherlands, government and food companies have proposed re-evaluating the use by/best before dates on packaging to help address the issue of food waste in Europe.  

Regional produce initiative, Meet the Normands, uses community currency.

A readiness to embrace local produce is taking hold in France, the largest agricultural producer in the EU and home to a rich culinary tradition. I spoke recently with Laurence Pons Wood, who lives in Provence and has been buying her fresh produce locally for 8 years now. She is a member of AMAP, an organisation modelled on the the American supported agricultural project. Consumers have a yearly contract with local producers and pay them on monthly basis for home grown produce. This helps the local farmer she explains because it means s/he can decide how much to plant in advance and there is less overall waste. Over the years they have developed a good relationship with their local producers and have visited their farms. ‘It’s almost like having a grandfather who has his own super allotment and shows you and explains how it all works’ she laughingly confides.

A variety of direct sales platforms, designed to bring producer and consumer together are increasing. For example, the Meet the Normands (Au rendez-vous des Normands) website, opened just two weeks ago, already has 700 registered producers. Launched by the local Normandy government, it uses community currency, RolloN, to further support local producers. Although use of community currency is not obligatory. The website features an interactive map which helps you locate local producers who sell dairy products, fish, meats, fruit and vegetables.

The ‘Beehives that say Yes’ initiative, (Ruche qui dit Oui)  began in 2011 and now has hives nationwide. A person, association or company can take charge of a beehive and is then responsible for contacting producers and finding members. Customers register by entering their address, after which they can order from a list of fresh products including fruit & veg, bread, meat, beer and cheese. All products have been sustainably produced and manufactured within a 250km radius, including things like coffee.

Farm Drive initiative reports quadrupling of weekly sales since corona crisis began.

The Welcome to the Farm (Bienvenue à la Ferme) label, begun in 1988 is associated with the French Chamber of Agriculture. This agritourism network brings together nearly 8000 members with the goal of opening up farms to the public for visits that include tastings, camping trips, picnics and educational tours. With the advent of coronavirus, this group have launched initiatives like Farm Drive and Eat Farmer (Mangez Fermier). They involve sourcing local products and offering them for sale via delivery or from various collection points. They have reported a quadrupling of weekly sales since the health crisis began.

But perhaps more importantly, producers and consumers agree that these sorts of initiatives create a greater sense of community. Describing its members as ‘ambassadors of sustainable and responsible agriculture rooted in the regions’, Bienvenue à la Ferme emphasises the importance of trust and transparency in relationships between producers and consumers.  There is a growing feeling of autonomy as communities take back control of their diets and ‘reclaim the Beehive’ as one Ruche qui dit Oui manager put it. Laurence Pons Wood is adamant that we all need to be much more invested in the process of food production. ‘Food doesn’t come to your plate by magic. It’s a complicated process’ from which we many of us in the modern world are too far removed. Perhaps it’s time for a change.